So, one month in China has gone by faster than any other month so far. While China is clearly a whole different world in the way that India is also unlike any other place, from what I saw that's where the similarity ends. Each of the three cities I saw (Guangzhou, Beijing, Xi'An) were clean, organized and with plenty of green, open spaces to just hang out. It's almost hard to fathom how much history is there and how much there could be to learn and explore. One month (where the first week was spent sleeping) was barely even enough to open my eyes to all the possibilities.
The main headline of my time in China is that Pam and Jim Greaney are wonderful hosts and a joy to be around! And, considering how much time I spent lounging around their apartment doing nothing at all, I feel very lucky that they didn't just get sick of me! Instead we had good meals, a few evenings out (or in) with friends, probably more movies than they've watched in ages, more ice cream than they've eaten in ages, a few good games of Canasta and lots of nice time together! I am so grateful 1) that they were so welcoming and made me feel so at home in every way and 2) that they're such a fun couple to be around and to learn from!
China-wise, I experienced much of what Beijing has to offer by way of a whirlwind rock-em-sock-em tour put together by someone in Jim's Beijing office that included all the major Beijing highlights -- unfortunately I think we sorely disappointed him every once in a while when we simply had to cry "uncle" and pass on an attraction or two. The things from Beijing that made the biggest impression on me were going to the flag-lowering at Tien An'Men Square with a ton of people there and kites flying and just to see this living, breathing place that has had a major role in modern Chinese history. Of course, the Great Wall is impressive and astounding, BUT even more impressive and astounding is the number of people who cram themselves onto the wall at one time, a sea of umbrellas curling over the ridge top. The thing I enjoyed seeing the most at the Wall was once you got to the end of the rennovated section and could see the original wall itself, more of a crumbling, rocky path than anything else. The Summer Palace also, while teeming with people in some parts, was full of gorgeous views and quiet places set back in the trees just for admiring both the natural and the architectural beauties.
The main attraction in Xi'An is the Terracotta Soldiers and I found them to be as impressive as people say they are. Even more though I enjoyed just walking around Xi'An and happening upon this place or another. One of the spots I just happened upon was the Forest of the Stone Tablets, which I was floored by. They have these big stone tablets with calligraphy on them, some from the time of Confuscious and some stone figurines from the year 300 -- the age of everything (like the world's first dictionary) was awe-inspiring.
I keep forgetting to add my only real story-worthy story from Xi'An. So, so far on this trip everything has gone veyr smoothly, sure a few bumps here and there, but no cancelled flights, no wars breaking out (where I've been anyway), nothing stolen, nothing. And then, in Xi'An, in a matter of two days I foiled two attempts of robbery! About Xi'An in particular the books make sure to mention pickpockets and the need to be aware and I'd already been in the habit of keeping my bag zipped and in front of me, so no problem. Then I was getting on a particularly busy bus, feeling the pushing of the throng of people behind me trying to get on the bus, as I open my bag to get my wallet and get my one yuan and then start to put it away and close my bag when I feel another hand in my bag with mine! I slowly picked up the pickpocket's hand, not really realizing what was going on and stared at him dumbly for a few seconds without saying anything (thinking what can I say? He doesn't speak English and I don't speak Chinese) and then the throng behind me finally won out and I was on the bus all of a sudden. All I had managed was a very pathetic little shove and an injured expression -- I have to say it was a very unsatisfactory pickpocket-foiling experience (though certainly much more satisfactory than it would have been had he succeeded). So, obviously a very amateur pickpocket attempt, but one nonetheless. The very next day, I'm walking down the street with my normal bag set-up (zipped and in front of me) and a bag of groceries. As I stepped onto the street out of the grocery store there were two guys who sort broke out of their huddle and started walking almost as soon as I passed them; immediately I was thinking how stupid it was when people do that because a) they're usually not doing it on purpose but makes them automatically look suspicious and b) it brings attention to them right away. So, I was keepin my eye on these guys who were behind me, and then one passed ahead of me and as they would sort of back and forth (I had a good 20-25 mintue walk ahead of me, so there was plenty of time for all this to play out), I started to try to make eye contact with them and say hello and just let them know that i had noticed them and then one would duck into a store for a second and so I would wait outside the store until he had moved on trying to make sure that they weren't ever behind me. Then one guy made a fatal error in their exercise, he started oh so casually talking to a third guy (who was dressed in the same white-shirt-khakis combo as the other two) and then they oh so casually separated and made their moves to circulate around me again -- thus glaringly announcing the entrance of a third guy. Finally, after getting a little more concerned and remembering a quip from one man's experience in China that Chinese people are often very reluctant to intervene in a situation of public criminality, I got more bold in staring them down while they tried so hard to ignore me and pretend they didn't see me and waving hello and stopping dead in my tracks to watch one walk by me so that they weren't behind me and finally, they absically gave me a big smile and a wave (how ennervating was that let me tell you) and basically told me I could move on without fear -- attempt number two, also with a strong amateur feel, had been thwarted.
More than anything else my month in China has served to whet my appetite for even the littlest bit of understanding of Chinese culture and history -- some day!
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Details:
- Fly to Hong Kong, Bus to Guangzhou, pick up at China Hotel by Pam, Jim and Jackson
- Sleep for a week in P&J's apartment (VERY hot in Guangzhou), a couple of dinners out with P&J's friends
- Walk around Shamian (French concession in Guangzhou), White Swan Hotel
- Fly to Beijing with P&J, shown around by Benson (Temple of Heaven, Summer Palace, Tien An'Men Square, Beijing duck, Beijing Zoo, Great Wall, fantastic Szechuan meal, Back Lakes, Forbidden City (sort of), hutong)
- Fly to Xi'An (first night at official hotel at cheap rate which they woke me up at 1:00 in the morning to discuss, then to good youth hostel by South Gate, lots of walking around town, Terracotta Soldiers (beautiful), Drum Tower, lots of markets, Forest of Stone Tablets, walking the city wall, dumpling banquet with Tand Dynasty show (think historical Chinese music and dance crossed with a Las Vegas show))
- Fly to Guangzhou in time to shop and cook for Indian dinner with P&J, Khrystina, Kelly and Oliver, Jim and Marilyn and their two daughters -- and then Canasta!
- Go to Chan family home/museum with Jim and Jackson, get caught in big rain
- Drive around Guangzhou with Pam and Jackson (go to gorgeous Temple of Six Banyan Trees)
- Go market-hopping with Khrystina and Oliver
NEXT STOP: Hong Kong
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